PolyureaProtective Coatings

Six surfaces

Start with the surface

Most coating failures trace back to the surface underneath. Each material asks for different preparation.

Applicator kneeling to spray a coating along the base of a concrete wall
Applicator kneeling to spray a coating along the base of a concrete wall

Concrete

Grind or shot blast to open the surface, repair cracks, test for moisture and prime. Concrete breathes, so outgassing and damp are the usual causes of blisters.

Gray coated containment floor and walls beside steel storage tanks

Steel

Blast to the cleanliness and profile the data sheet names, remove salts, and coat before flash rust returns. Edges and welds need extra attention.

Inside corner of a concrete block wall coated in dark blue, seen from a low angle

Masonry and block

Fill voids, clean off dust and efflorescence, and prime to seal pores. Block walls often need more material to build an even film.

Coated walkway deck with a glass rail beside open water

Wood

Dry, sound and clean wood takes coatings well. Fasteners should be set, joints detailed, and moisture content checked before spraying.

Empty swimming pool finished with a light blue coating

Existing coatings

Test adhesion first. Many older finishes need to be removed or abraded, and some do not accept polyurea at all.

Black lined containment basin with a steel guard rail along its edge

Geotextile and liners

Fabric over soil or a structure gives the coating something to grip and bridges uneven ground in containment and lining work.

Before anything

Test a small area first

A test patch with an adhesion check tells you more about a surface than any chart. Read the surface preparation guide for the cleaning, repair and profiling steps, and inspection and testing for the checks that follow.

Next step

Name the threats, then build the checklist.